In general traveling in Indonesia or other Asian countries is quite cheap. Just one “small” detail – you need to have time. Like some destinations are quite far from each other (even if in the map looks closer) and the cheapest way of traveling is by land.
One of the most popular destinations in Indonesia – Bali island. But people try to travel around and not stay only in Bali. Most common that travelers fly to Jakarta, then through Java island (visiting Yogyakarta, Mount Bromo and Ijen) reach Bali. There people stay longer or go to other islands (Lombok, Komodo, Gilis and etc.).
The economical way to go from Yogyakarta to Bali is take “economi” train (yes, they have other train types as well – Executive (Eksecutif), Business (Bisnis)). The cheapest way would be hitch-hiking, but not all people likes it and most of travelers have limited time for holidays.
Technically you can’t get from Yogyakarta to Bali only by train because it’s 2 separate islands (Yogyakarta is in Java island). With train from Java you can reach only Java island port. From there you still need to use ferry to get to Bali harbor and use other transport (bus, taxi, car, motorbike) to get to any city in Bali island.
All train stops from Yogyakarta to Bali
So, how to travel from Yogyakarta to Bali in economical way?
Take “economi” train from Yogyakarta Lempuyangan railway station. It leaves every day in early morning. Journey takes 13-15 hours. Cost 1 way/per person 100 000 Rp (~7,5 USD).
From Banyuwangi Baru railway station go straight to Ketapang port (it’s ~10 min. by foot from train station).
Take a ferry from Ketapang port to Bali Gilimanuk harbor. Ferries goes 24 hours. It takes ~40 min. (can be less or more, depends on the “traffic” in the sea). Cost 1 way/per person 7 500 Rp (~0,55 USD).
From Bali Gilimanuk harbor catch other transportation to go to needed Bali city. For that you have couple options:
In the ferry look around if there are any cars with 1-2 people or motorbikes with 1 person. Go to ask those people if they could bring you to any city in Bali (depends on their own destinations, but most probably they will go to Denpasar, Ubud or Kuta). As well you can see buses – go to talk with a driver if there are any free seat for you (but for this they will ask extra money. Amount depends on the driver, so you can try to negotiate with him).
If you feel too shy/uncomfortable to speak with local people – you can try to catch a bus in Bali harbor, just nobody knows exact night bus timings. Maybe you will need to wait 1 hour maybe till the morning. The bus stop is on the right side after you will exit harbor (but most of the time drivers already try to catch travelers in harbor and invite them to follow). But it’s not so nice to stay in empty harbor. There are few “warungs” (“street cafes”) which works all night long but sometimes people there a bit strange and you can feel uncomfortable there. Usually bus takes to Denpasar 3-5 hours (depends on bus type, one stopping in each corner to collect people, other – go straight to Denpasar). Price from Bali Gilimanuk harbor to Denpasar cost 1 way/per person 30 000-50 000 Rp (~2,16-3,60 USD) depends how good you are in bargain :) But at night price can be a bit higher.
Pros for traveling from Yogyakarta to Bali by train
It’s the cheapest way (not counting hitchhiking) to get to Bali.
You can see beautiful nature and local people daily life views through the window on the way from Yogyakarta to Bali.
You don’t need to worry about oversize backpack, there are no limitations for stuff that you take with you.
If you are friendly, curious person, during the trip you can speak with local people and know them better. They will spend all 13 hours with you, so would love to chat as well.
There are power sockets, so if you have laptop with you – can “kill” your time with watching movies or do other things.
On the way to Bali, you can stop in Probolinggo and visit Bromo, Ijen. Later can continue your trip to Bali by bus.
Cons for traveling from Yogyakarta to Bali by train
“Economi” train stops in almost every train station. As well they called “polite trains” – “economi” train stops and always allow the “faster” trains to pass by. Also there are stops, where train stop for longer time (for example in Surabaya stop for 30 min.). So, this train not the best for those whose stay in Indonesia short.
If you want to buy cheapest economic train ticket (especially during local holidays, weekends) you should do it at least 1 week in advance. Before/during/after Ramadhan even couple weeks before. Like many Indonesians will go back to visit their families and it’s the cheapest way for them to do that. Yes, you can try your luck by buying ticket in the train station day before or couple hours before departure, but it’s very rare be so lucky :).
If you don’t like to get a lot of attention – traveling by economic train – not for you. Most of the local people who is traveling by train rare see foreigners, so they are very curious. They can stare at you all the time, try to talk with you. And if you will be “lucky” – kids will stuck around you and will make pictures of you. In other hand it can be pros as well – you have possibility 13 hours to know Indonesian people better, “kill” your time.
Most of the seats are made for 2 or 3 people, but there is no separation. So if you can’t stand that all journey somebody will touch you – don’t choose travel by such train.
If you are too sensitive for kids scream, noises, different food smells – as well don‘t choose this train. Mostly people in the train feels and behave like at home.
The train will delay all the time. So even if official trip duration is 13 hours. It can delay till ~2 hours.
Tips for traveling from Yogyakarta to Bali by train (ferry and bus)
In economic train is working air-condition (or can be fans), so even if outside will be hot, inside will be colder. Take something to cover yourself.
There are simple squat toilets but no toilet paper so have it with you.
In the train there is café and time to time guys are coming with some snacks, food, hot drinks – but don’t expect anything luxury :D. Better to buy water, snacks before the trip – will be cheaper and can eat when you want without waiting for the sellers.
There are power sockets, so during the trip you can charge your equipment, but don’t forget that other will do the same. Don’t leave your charger all trip long :).
Come to the train at least 40 min. before departure. Then you will have chance to put your bags above your head. Later all places will be fully complete with local people stuffs (ant they will have a lot off them :)).
Have small bag with you, where you will have all needed things for journey. Like every time go up and take something from big bag will be not comfortable.
Keep eye on your stuff during the stops. Even if people not allowed to enter train station are without showing the ticket, still some sellers from outside get inside the train.
In Banyuwangi train station, many taxi drivers will suggest to take you to the port. But it’s no need – it’s so near. Except if you have a lot of stuff and don’t want take them by yourself.
Before getting inside the bus be sure to which bus station they will arrive. Sometimes different buses goes to different stations in Denpasar.
If you have chance, don’t sit in the end of the bus, it’s a place for people who is going short distances. Of course you can sit there, just won’t be comfortable when around you will put many boxes, other travelers stuffs, people will ask you to move and etc.
How to by train ticketfrom Yogyakarta to Bali
You can buy straight in Yogyakarta Lempuyangan railway station (need to have your ID).
You can buy in “Indomaret” supermarket. You just need to have your ID, tell for the cashier where, when you want to go. She/he will print the check with your trip details. Usually for this service they charge extra 7 5000 Rp but as well most of the time they make some advertising, like “buy ticket – get free drink” or no charge fee and etc. (every time it’s different offer). But this check is only reservation – at least 1 hour before departure you should come to train station and change this check to the real ticket.
You can buy ticket online in Indonesian railway website (only in Indonesian language, but navigation quite easy and main words you can find in google translator :)). Here, after reservation, you should buy ticket during 24 hours (you can do it “Indomaret”, “Alfamart” and other supermarkets (it the end of reservation will be shown the the list) or show reservation letter in train station, you will get it to your email).
You can buy ticket online in private agency Tiket. There is everything written in English so much easier to buy. But they can charge small fee for service. As well in this website you can book hotel, rent a car. Sometimes I find there cheap flights inside Indonesia.
If you will decide to travel to other places in Indonesia by train, here is more information about other train routes.
How I traveled from Yogyakarta to Bali by train?
I traveled by train twice. First time, we decided not to go straight to the ferry but stay overnight in the hostel that we found in the train station area. We went to Bali next morning. Second time – I went straight to Bali harbor where my friend pick me up with motorbike. But believe me it was very tiring and long journey. We reach Sanur only at 6 am (took ~5 hours go by motorbike).
If you will decide to stay overnight in Banyuwangi as well. We stayed in simple place. Nothing fancy, rooms are small, without proper windows. One type rooms have shared bathroom (cost 75 000 Rp), others – private (price 100 000 Rp) per night. In this place they don’t make any reservation. Who comes first get a bed. It’s clean place but made just for overnight stay. In the morning you can order coffee, breakfast for additional money.
I met one traveler who told that he stays in other place for 45 000 Rp but I don’t know exactly where that place is, as well at night I didn’t want to search for it :). But here you can see other places to stay.
Hostel in Ketapang port, where we stayed.
If you want to make your trip more memorable and you have extra time, I suggest on the way to Bali stop in Bromo and Ijien volcanoes. It will be things that for sure you won’t forget. Just check Lili’s practical guide to Kawah Ijen and enjoy your journey!
What is your experience traveling by trains in Asia? Would you recommend it for other travelers?
Probably most of you, at least once, seen the spectacular pictures or read amazing impressions about Vesak celebration in Borobudur temple in Indonesia? Thousands lanterns fly up at night in the horizon of Buddha statue and temple? But how many of you know what people are ready to do to see this unforgettable view? What is going on during all day celebration and how are treated officers?
I have been in Vesak celebration this year and I will share what real story hides Vesak lanterns ;).
Why this day so special?
Waisak (in Indonesia language) also known as Visakah Puja or Buddha Purnima in India, Visakha Bucha in Thailand and globally known as Vesak – is a major event in the religious calendar for most Asian Buddhists. Buddhists this day celebrate the birth, enlightenment and death of Buddha. Those who observe the religion use it as an opportunity to pay homage to The Enlightened One, seizing the opportunity to reiterate their devotion to principles of Buddhism: the determination to lead a noble life, the promise to develop their minds, the practice of love and kindness and the strive for peace and harmony with humanity. The holiest day is celebrated across the Buddhist world, but is most spectacular at Java’s island Borobudur, the world’s largest Buddhist temple. Many articles already written about rituals of this celebration, so if you are interested you can read about it more here or here.
On the way to Vesak celebration we got flat tire in the middle of nowhere
In motorbike service I saw small motorbike for kids. From the childhood they are teach kids to drive :)
The procession in Mendut temple takes till mid-afternoon
Children watching the morning procession
All those people (and more) waiting for invitations of evening ceremony
2015 year celebration was more special
First of all, this year, Indonesian President Joko Widodo and other government officials decided to attend the opening ceremony of the Vesak celebration. It means more people wanted to come, not only to see the lanterns inflammation but to see the president from close. Second, organizers were expected ~20 000 Buddhist to attend this event this year.
Also because of some anxiety between Buddhist and Muslims in Myanmar, was a bit worried that can be made some Muslim attacks during this ceremony (like revenge for Buddhist actions in Myanmar). Even not so many monks, that usually come, came this time (maybe they were afraid?). Because of these reasons in Borobudur and around that area were working ~15 000 soldiers and policemen from all central Java.
Each Buddhist organization had separate tent for their own processions
Men waiting when could start the procession. Their faces not seems happy, they will need walk ~ 3 hours with heavy offerings
Indonesian president car passed me very near, just my camera didn’t work :)
And what is the reality, how people get inside for celebration closing ceremony – lanterns ignition?
People can freely enter daytime ceremony in front of Mendut temple, as well join the procession from Mendut temple till Borobudur. But to the final part, closing celebration in the evening, you can enter only in several ways (not allow to get inside all people, it’s just prevention not to make too crowded around UNESCO heritage – Borobudur temple): you need to be Buddhist and prove it then you will get invitation or you can give donation at least ~100 000 Rp (~7 EUR) (for this amount you will get your own lantern, will enter Borobudur temple cheaper during daytime and you can go to closing ceremony at night).
To get invitation you need to come to Mendut temple in early morning (and depends on you – you can follow all ceremony till the evening or leave and come back at night).
But to get invitation you need to be a Buddhist. Guess how many tourists who are coming to see lanterns during Vesak day are Buddhist? Probably not a lot (I didn’t check, it’s my guess:P). So how they get to the evening ceremony? Donate? Mostly, not. Because maybe 100 000 Rp (~7 EUR) it’s too big amount for donation even if they can save money on entrance fee to Borobudur temple (what normal cost for tourists ~280 000 Rp – ~18 EUR).
Even in cheapest “warungs” the price rise during Vesak day
People are too lazy come closer so were waiting for procession from Borobudur park
Parking in front of Borobudur more expensive than a bit further
All Borobudur park was full of rubbish which volunteers were collecting all day long
They prefer lie, pretend Buddhist, jump over the fence and maybe try other tricks. How do I know? I was a witness of all this actions.
During daytime, when we arrived to the place where invitations are given, we were told that invitations will be given at lunch time. I met couple of other tourist who were trying get invitations like me.
We all came back to the same post on exact time. Everyone’s had their own strategy how to get invitations (because mainly people weren’t Buddhist)
The foreigner’s couple that I met before and had short conversation, came to me and asked if I already got invitations, I said not yet. And they were happy that they have it already. I asked how they get it – they very joyful and satisfied told me that they lie that they are Buddhist
One foreigners group which for me didn’t look like Buddhist (sorry maybe it’s my stereotype, but come to holy celebration wearing things like going to the beach, doesn’t associate with going to pray or meditate) had local guide. He was convincing responsible person that this tourist group is Buddhist and wants to get inside in the evening. Unfortunately they didn’t have any paper that proves that they are Buddhist. Guide took some time for convincing but finally he got invitations.
I met one more familiar foreigner. She was wearing T-shirt with one Buddhist organization logo. When I asked if she is a Buddhist, she said no. Just she have Indonesian friend who is Buddhist, so she asked him to be written in their organization participants list to get inside in the evening ceremony.
I saw and Indonesian people who I know from the look. They are not Buddhists (they follow other religion). They came wearing white T-shirt (they dressed up it when arrived). It’s not written law that Buddhist if not wears they organization T-shirt, they can wear white T-shirt – it means they are Buddhist or at least very supportive to Buddhism.
Inside the temple, in the evening, where you can get in with invitations, I met one foreigner. He was surprised that to get inside people needs invitations. He didn’t know about it. He just jump over the fence to get in. Even if it was many security who checked surrounding, probably if you really want you can find the way to go through the fence.
Others-were waiting in front of the entrance gate for the time when they will be allowed to get inside (usually when ceremony already partway, people are let inside without invitation as well). But instead of waiting they started organize “fake” pressure in front of the gate just to get in. Security didn’t want any tragedy, they open the gate for couple of minutes, to first people get inside and reduce crush.
Some Indonesians made “fakes” organization paper with participants list, to get inside “officially”.
I’m not writing here the advices how to get in the ceremony “illegally”. I just want to share reality of people behavior. What they can figure out and do just because of their aim. The right way to get inside – is just come with an official paper from the Buddhist organization. If you are not Buddhist just donate money. I started to think is those 100 000 Rp really worth to lie, pretend and betray your belief? Is this holy celebration is all about it?
You curious how I get in, if I’m not Buddhist? No I didn’t use my “contacts”, lied or did something else. I went to post where they was giving invitations and ask for couple of them (for me and friends). They asked me if I’m Buddhist and I asked back “how you will check it, if I will say yes? The religion written only in Indonesians ID, in my country ID isn’t written”. I told him “I don’t want to lie or pretend that I’m Buddhist, because I’m not, and will be honest with you, because all this celebration about good things. I just really want to go inside and see how its looks like”. He smiled, said thank you for honesty and gave me couple of invitations. Why I didn’t donate money instead of asking invitation? For me, living only from scholarship amount, these 100 000 Rp believe or not is big money – I can eat for this sum almost 10 times. Reason only this, otherwise, I would be happy to have my own lantern and put it to the sky with my wish. Many people do that, leave a note on inflammation lanterns in willing that their wish will come true.
People with invitations are waiting till will be let inside Borobudur temple
Even after praying Indonesians leave trashes everywhere
Thousands of prayers in the evening ceremony
Photographers like crazy we’re trying to make better shots
How 24 hours working soldiers and policemen were treated?
All security people came to Borobudur area ~4 am and should leave next day at the same time or whatever other time, when all people from Borobudur area will be gone. People were working all day long, without any care from government to provide them water and food (one soldier told us). Do you think these people will be motivated to work and secure if they treated like this? Some group’s chiefs paid for food and drinks from their own money. And when policemen left some water bottles in boxes near the gate (for the later time when they will be trusty), other people just came and took it from boxes while soldiers were further. I saw it by my eyes. They did that without any shame or hiding.
I know all this things because during the day and in the evening, till we were waiting, few policemen, soldiers came to me to speak. You know everybody is curious about foreigners. Even if there were many foreigners they felt more comfortable to come to me, because I was with Indonesian friends, so they felt that I can be more open and friendly to chat with them. Yeah, I really like to speak with people and know more about their work, what they think and etc.
And finally what about organizational side?
This year, some of the parts were a bit different than previous year (my friends who participated before told me). The good thing that almost nothing was delay, everything by the program, maybe because of the president visit? But the lanterns first time were prepared not upstairs Borobudur temple but downstairs. There were a lot of volunteers who helped to show the way and organizing things. As well all rubbish from all area were cleaned so quick that I couldn’t believe that what I saw 15 min. ago, already gone (Indonesian people put trashes whatever).
But something didn’t work out properly with lanterns inflammation. Usually the lanterns should by lighted after monks make the last part of ceremony “Pradaksina”, when they goes 3 times around the temple and turn on the first lantern from the stage, that symbolize enlightenment for the entire universe. But this time the guys in down part started to light them much earlier, when procession wasn’t finished yet. And I saw how organizers on the stage were confused tried to fix the situation, but it was too late. As well this year they didn’t put the thousands of lanterns at one time, just small amount little by little. Like ceremony finished at ~2 am, people were already tired. Most of them started leave after first amount of lanterns were up in the sky. We left ~3 am and we saw that many lanterns still waiting their turn to be lighted.
Preparation of lanterns firing
Indonesian guys made T-shirt with child Buddha sketch with words “Happy birthday Buddha”
Volunteers during the work were praying as well
The bright side
Yeah, even if I experienced different reality of Vesak day (I even thought that I was expected “fairy tale”, but got “daily life” experience), still it’s really beautiful ceremony. In the evening especially. I can’t describe the feeling when 20 min. of meditation thousands of prayers were totally quite. Was possible to hear only moving leaves sound and geckos. Really amazing to see that magnificent lights, joy of prayers. If you will have chance to see it, it’s worth – just please don’t get inside in “wrong” way. It’s holy celebration, so at least you can behave in good way :).
As well, by accident we met one Danish guy with whom we met in Gili Meno island in January. It was so nice surprise in thousand people crowd to see known faces after 6 months :). And one funny thing that I still remember – one Indonesian youth couple, was sitting all the time in front of “angkringan” where we stayed for a while. Till it was bright outside – the girl was with hijab, but when became dark she took out her hijab. So what means to wear hijab in Indonesia? Fashion? About this I will tell you later :)
Lanterns were inflamed only by small amount
Monks from all over the world posing for pictures
We left ~3am and still many lanterns were not put up
So this is my story behind the lanterns beauty.
Have you been in Vesak celebration in Indonesia or somewhere else? What was your experience?
PRACTICAL INFORMATION
Each year Vesak day celebrated in different days. You can check in calendar when will be celebration in 2018 and 2019.
Prices of parking and everything else rises double during the celebration. Parking in front Borobudur 20 000 Rp. You can go and search for any other place, further and can find for 5 000 Rp. Just before leaving the motorbike ask till what time is parking. Because some of the people cheating and let park motorbike only till 6 pm, so what to do till all the celebration finish?
If you are foreigner, be ready to get attention from locals. There comes a lot of people and will ask many pictures with you. One of my Indonesian friend advised me, to try educate those who asks pictures. Just ask why you want a picture with me if we are equal. I’m a human like you, just look differently, like people from different Indonesian islands looks differently.
If you want to walk through all procession wear good shoes, the distance not far, but it will be very slow, will take 2-3 hours of walk.
To donate money for lantern you can during daytime in Mendut temple. You will see signs and people who will walk around and suggest you to donate. It’s really worth – you get lantern, get into Borobudur and final ceremony part.
Pricing for entrance ticket to Borobudur temple.
Mostly people plan to stay in Yogyakarta only 2 days: visit famous UNESCO heritage temples Borobudur and Prambanan. If they have interest – climb the Merapi volcano at night or visit Merapi area – Kaliurang during the day time (rent a jeep for volcano tour). As well if they have free time – visit Kraton (“Sultane palace”), Taman Sari (“Water castle”), Malioboro street (“Jl. Malioboro”), Beringharjo market (Pasar Beringharjo) and some other places.
But in Yogyakarta area, not far from the city center are more interesting places to see :). I and my friend made 1 day trip (with motorbike) visiting temples (including famous ones), different local village and waterfall. We didn’t plan to visit only temples, but started to search what possible to see around all places it became like a trip – “temple day”:). Here is itinerary and some my impressions for those who would like to explore more of Yogyakarta are:
Teletubbies village (Teletubbies desa) – Twin waterfall in Wukirharjo village (Air terjun Kembar Wukirharjo) – Twin temple (Candi Plaosan) – Prambanan temple (Candi Prambanan) – Ratu Boko temple (Candi Ratu Boko).
We started the journey at 11.30 am from Yogyakarta south (Kasongan).
Dome houses
First we visited Teletubbies (Teletubbies desa) – the dome houses. It took us ~1 hour of drive from Yogyakarta to the village. I read article about this village disaster and how people managed to continue the life in the unique houses. The uniqueness is dome-shaped houses, namely round semicircle. They look like the homes of people eskimo and nothing common with Javanese houses. And it’s the only such houses in all Indonesia. These houses were built after the earthquake that had occurred in the hamlet of Sengir, Sumberharjo, Yogyakarta in 2006. We visited this village already 9 years after the earthquake and village doesn’t look like the same when it was built and the view that I saw in the photos. Naturally after so many years, all area now green again, people started to build additional house beside dome houses, build shops in Javanese style houses and etc. just continued to live like they were used to before earthquake. Some of the houses already repaired, colored and empty. The village view no more so impressive but is worth to visit. Just to see how such shape houses looks in Indonesian nature, even to see how Indonesian people understand and how to get used to live in such houses – the round shape is not in their “blood” for sure :). As well it’s possible there to climb small hills and visit other, more traditional villages and see nice panoramic view from the top (we didn’t do it this time, but I heard this from my local friends). Some travel agencies even suggesting travel tours to this village, but not many foreigners comes here, so people not so used to see them. Till I was making some pictures, passed two girls on motorbike, when they saw me – they stopped just in the middle of the street. They were so excited and with a bit “broken” English asked if they can make picture with me. Like after living in Indonesia I was a bit tired every time to take a picture with locals and I said myself that never again will do that, those girls were so honest and happy – that I couldn’t resist to say “maaf, tidak” (“sorry, no”). After making photos with me, maybe 10 min., they were jumping around with happiness and joy :). Sometimes for Indonesians doesn’t need a lot to feel happy :).
Houses build quite near each other.
The village looked like this 9 years ago (picture taken from internet).
People started to color white houses, build new building beside.
At visiting time, some local kids were playing there, swimming.
Next our stop was – Twin waterfall (Air terjun Kembar Wukirharjo) – it takes ~10-15 min. from Teletubbies village. Near waterfall there are quite vertical part of route. Unfortunately not all bikes are strong enough and can go up with two people. We were not exclusion. I get down from motorbike and walked up by foot (it’s not long way) and my friend very slowly was going up with motorbike. So we had not enough strong motorbike :). The view from the parking area quite nice – possible to see some hills in horizon illuminate with sun. There are two paths to go to waterfall – one through waterfall opening and second from down part. In any case which route you will take, you can go around waterfall from up to down or conversely (just you need pass over stones – there is no clear path to go around). The path is a bit slippery and clayey, maybe because we went there when couple days before was a bit rain. In dry season should be drier but in rainy – can be a bit more difficult to pass the path. The waterfall not so big and the flow not so strong, but those two streams look nice. There were no more people (like we went during the week day, most probably during the weekend you can meet there more local people enjoying the view) just few kids who were swimming and playing there (even if the water is quite dirty and you can see some trashes around), so atmosphere was very peaceful. A bit further we saw other kids who were searching for stones and making round shapes for rings. Some of the people just like how the stone looks in the ring, others believes that it can give some power. So the kids collecting those stones and can sell each for ~ 10 000 Rp. We stayed there for ~30-40 min. and continued our trip.
“Entering” from another side.
“Inside” waterfall.
“Entering” from one side.
When they saw that I’m making a picture of waterfall they started to pose :)
The view from parking are.
Later we went to see Twin temple (Candi Plaosan) – it took us ~30-40 min. ride from waterfall. On the way you will see road sign to Ratu Boko temple, but we planned to visit it for sunset (if you want to save some time, you can visit this temple first and end the trip in Prambanan). The way to this temple surrounded by plenty of rice fields and small hills, we enjoyed this ride part.
Even if this temple stands near famous Prambanan temple, not a lot of people go to visit it. This Buddhist temple is divided into two parts, Plaosan Lor (“north”) and Plaosan Kidul (“south”). It’s estimated to be built in the beginning of the 9th century during Rakai Pikatan reign and surrounded by rice fields.
We stopped before entering the temple to make some pictures from further, were you can see both of the temples in front. If you are lucky enough, you can have much better view, when the people work in rice field. Even if there is no admission fee (no price tables), they expect you to donate some money for entrance. I came to entrance gate where security was sitting and showed my KITAS (limited stay permit, that sometimes gives discount or entrance fee like for local people) they asked from me 3 000 Rp for entrance. Its’ not big but cute temple, surrounded by the remains. If you will walk through it, on the ground you can see some patterns, sculptures. When I was visiting this temple there were some Indonesian people, mostly youth couples that was making many pictures in different poses and in each corner, some of them just hiding for have some privacy. So don’t be scared if some of the couple suddenly will come out from the tiny entrance of the temple fence. We spend here ~20 min.
Temple in a state of ruin.
If you are lucky, you can see even such view (picture taken from internet).
Another temple of “twins”.
One of the temples.
Girls checking if the “selfie” looked good :)
You can see some destroyed ruins but as well discover some big parts. Worth to have a walk throw ruins as well.
Like we went for the trip during day time, it was quite hot, so we stopped to drink some cold drinks. From Twin temple to Prambanan temple on the way you will see many small “warung’s”. Closer to Prambanan more expensive drinks, so if you are thirsty stop in the middle between both temples.
Famous Prambanan temple (Candi Prambanan) is located ~ 10 min. from Twin temple. Even it was working day (I thought I will avoid Indonesians to asking pictures with me) but I didn’t know that it was celebration day (Ascension Day) – “red date” event. So I even didn’t enter the temple when three local girls asked a favor me to speak with them in English for English lesson. One girl was filming the conversation with phone, another reading the question and third one just assisting. Like the girls were quite polite, I spend with them ~15 min. and went inside. It was already ~2.30 pm but it was numerous amounts of people – mostly locals and few tourists. Usually during the weekends and celebrations, locals from all around Yogyakarta visiting temples and other places. I was a bit in a hurry because wanted to go ahead all those people, but when I just entered the complex some of the youth groups from school, young couples started to ask picture with me – and usually they don’t ask one picture, they want each separately have one picture with foreigner. One of the guys were more polite, others grabbing my hand and asking “selfy” – so depends on how they came to me I decided to spend time with them or not. Even if the place very beautiful I didn’t enjoy it – because of the people who were asking pictures and don’t let me to see everything properly. So instead of maybe hours of walk around in whole complex – I spend ~ 30 min. The all complex area is quite big, not in a hurry and visiting other smaller temple that is under construction now, you can spend there till two hours for sure :).
Temple from “exit” side
It’s just a small part of all those people who were there at that time.
And after ~15 min. way from Prambanan temple we reached our last destination – Ratu Boko temple (Candi Ratu Boko). Like we wanted to go there to see the spectacular sunset (everywhere this temple presented like this :)), we arrived there ~4 pm. From 3 pm the entrance fee is raised 5 000 Rp, because it’s “sunset time”. In many beautiful places, Indonesians divide the entrance fee for sunrise/sunset and usual hours.
On the way climbing the stairs to the temple on left side you can see Prambanan. Ratu Boko temple area is quite big and nice to walk around. Inside you can go a bit on the hill to see the entire complex. After small walk around I just sit on the land in front of temple and started to wait for sunset. That time not so many people came, but all temple was crowded of people who were making pictures, so to have photos without people – not possible. But even with less people (comparing with Prambanan temple) – here I got attention as well – families with kids were asking pictures, teenagers and etc. At least here were more polite people – before asking the picture with me, asked who I’m, what I’m doing in Yogyakarta and etc. The time passed quickly – and the sun started to come down. The view was really beautiful but I believe that can be even more spectacular. Lately was cloudy so we decided to leave ~5.30 pm but I saw still many people were coming, probably they came with daily Yogyakarta tours after Prambanan temple and I can say they missed the most beautiful view, left only dark clouds :). I heard that it’s possible to get to the temple from another side, but you need to know locals, who would show you the way and as well maybe pay a bit money, but not the same amount like entrance fee.
On the way back in front of the stairs was possible to see the Merapi volcano. Like I left till the sun didn’t get down totally I haven’t seen how the city is lighted, but if you want you can wait more and then you will see nice lightening of Prambanan in the horizon.
If you are lucky, you can see more magnificent sunsets (picture taken from internet).
Waiting for the sunset.
The sun goes down.
You can see such view of Prambanan temple in late evening from Ratu Boko temple (picture taken from internet).
It’s seen only very small part of all temple area.
It’s possible to see from Ratu Boko temple the small silhouette of Prambanan temple.
Light silhouette of volcano Merapi from Ratu Boko temple.
The sun goes down
So after ~1 hour driving back we reached our home and finished the trip :).
Even if it was quite hot and local people attention to me annoyed a lot but I really enjoy the trip – different views of the land, nature, temples, daily local people life – Indonesia always have what to show.
Have you been in these places? Did you enjoy?:)
PRACTICAL INFORMATION:
Route map
Time – ~7 hours
With stops, driving, visiting objects. We were going on 50-60 km/h speed.
We spend (2 people) – 175 000 Rp.
Fuel (we fulfill full tank but didn’t spent all) – 29 000 Rp.
Parking – 4 000 Rp (in Twin waterfall place and Ratu Boko temple, for Twin temple and Prambanan we parked a bit further from objects for free – in the street).
For lunch (we ate in Yogyakarta south before the trip) – 20 000 Rp.
Drinks on the way in “warungs” – 8 000 Rp.
Entrance fee – Twin temple – 6 000 Rp, Prambanan temple (with KITAS and for local person) – 60 000 Rp, Ratu Boko temple (for sunset entrance) – 48 000 Rp.
Tips
It’s possible to visit just Prambanan, Twin and Ratu Boko temples with public transport. From the city Jl. Malioboro take bus 1A (pass the airport to Prambanan). From Prambanan you can walk or take “becak” to Twin temple. And after you will come back to Prambanan take “becak” to Ratu Boko temple (ask driver to come again on certain time and he will drive you back to Prambanan from where you can go back to the city).
It’s possible to start the trip earlier when not so hot and not so big amount people comes to famous places, but this time all the timing was built by the final destination Ratu Boko temple. If not the sunset, probably the journey we would start at 7 or 8 am.
Visiting waterfall take some shoes suitable to get wet and climb in slippery way and through clay.
It’s your choices to stop with everyone to take a picture and speak English for lessons. But if you don’t want this – just don’t have an eye contact with locals, try to pass bigger amount groups in hurry or just say “maaf, tidak” (“sorry, no”). In this case you can get back questions “why”, some pleases. So you can just smile and go away or finally agree to make a picture. But if others will see that you agreed to take a picture with someone, they as well will come to you.
If in Twin temple they will ask more money for entrance, don’t forget that it’s donation, with smile give the amount that you want to pay and then just go inside, like no price is listed there.
Visiting Ratu Boko temple, try to come earlier ~ 4 pm (even when the sun starts to go down ~5 pm), like you will never know what the weather will be and when the clouds will come out. So better to see something than nothing, like those daily tours groups that came after 5 pm.
Take with you sun cream, water (drinks) and snacks :).
If you need a guide in Yogyakarta and around I can recommend – Hendra
Later we went to see Twin temple (Candi Plaosan) – it took us ~30-40 min. ride from waterfall. On the way you will see road sign to Ratu Boko temple, but we planned to visit it for sunset (if you want to save some time, you can visit this temple first and end the trip in Prambanan). The way to this temple surrounded by plenty of rice fields and small hills, we enjoyed this ride part.
Famous Prambanan temple (Candi Prambanan) is located ~ 10 min. from Twin temple. Even it was working day (I thought I will avoid Indonesians to asking pictures with me) but I didn’t know that it was celebration day (Ascension Day) – 
And after ~15 min. way from Prambanan temple we reached our last destination – Ratu Boko temple (Candi Ratu Boko). Like we wanted to go there to see the spectacular sunset (everywhere this temple presented like this :)), we arrived there ~4 pm. From 3 pm the entrance fee is raised 5 000 Rp, because it’s “sunset time”. In many beautiful places, Indonesians divide the entrance fee for sunrise/sunset and usual hours.
