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Uluwatu beach in Bali – where magic happen

Sometimes on my mind I have exact places which I want to visit. Sometimes just let myself to get lost and stop somewhere on the way. Most of the time, the second choice gives me more surprises. Small trip to Uluwatu beach wasn’t exception.

I got suggestion to go to Uluwatu beach after the daytime. I thought it’s a bit too long way just to stay there for couple of hours (from my place, near Sanur, it’s ~1 hour one way). I suggested just to go on that direction and stop somewhere where we will find a sign “pantai” (in Indonesian language it means “beach”), just to enjoy the sunset (in that area it’s really beautiful ones).

Somehow all beaches on the way we missed (Green Bowl, Balangan, Dreamland, Bingin, Padang-Padang) and still arrived to Uluwatu beach.

First of all, this beach name a bit confusing. In internet you can find 3 different names: Blue point beach, Suluban or Uluwatu beach. After some research I understood why it’s called differently. “Suluban” is the original name and people just gave extra name “Blue point” because of the water color when you look to it from the top of the cliffs. “Uluwatu” beach is different one, straight under the famous temple Uluwatu (Pura Luhur Uluwatu). You can find this beach just on the left side through cave when you are heading to Suluban beach (no signs – just try to find the entry in the cave or follow others).

If you will go straight – it’s Suluban beach. If you will turn left (where is the rock) will be Uluwatu beach

Second, it’s not proper beach where you have plenty of space for bathing or other activities. It doesn’t have soft sand (mostly covered by stones and small pieces of corals). As well going for swimming in the Indian ocean you will need pass many rocks in the water.

Uluwatu beach surrounded by cliffs, stones

Third, this place called one of the best places for experienced surfers, so you should understand that the waves are high and strong. Also the best time to enjoy swimming is in the morning and daytime. It becomes like a natural swimming pool forms between the beach and reef. Later the water comes up and hide all rocks under the water, so you can harm yourself while swimming in strong waves.

Uluwatu beach sunset — Black dots in the ocean – surfers waiting for the “right” wave

In any case this place is really worth to visit, like it’s something different from usual beach views of South part of Bali. And you don’t need to be a surfer to enjoy this place. There are many local eating places “warungs” where you can just take a drink, relax and have the romantic sunset view. If you are lucky, you can see turtles swimming in the turquoise water as well. Probably one of the most known places to have really good time is “Single Fin bar”. It’s a bar situated on one the edge of the limestone cliff overlooking Uluwatu beach and Indian Ocean. As well they have live music every Sunday.

But what is so magical about Uluwatu beach?

Beside an unusual beach view, high cliffs, beautiful sunsets, some people say, that cave through which you need to pass to Uluwatu beach is magical. Why/how magical this cave I don’t know but I have my own interesting story to tell.

Usually sunsets comes ~5.30-6 pm in South part of Bali. While enjoying time in Uluwatu beach I saw that many people start to leave the beach even before 5 pm. I thought that probably they want to see other places or do something else. After we decided to go out as well, we turned to direction that we came in and where a bit surprised. We didn’t find the cave exit through which we pass inside. We looked around maybe we missed it. But no. We were a bit confused how come it happen, where is the exit. But suddenly in front of us came black local dog that we saw before playing in the beach. He just looked at as, went couple steps forward, again looked at as, like calling “fallow me”. First time I remember one scene from documentary movie (I forgot the name) when guy told – “if you don’t know which direction to choose, follow the animals that you will meet on your way”. So, I said – “yeah this dog going home and know where is exit”. So I started just talk with dog saying “go doggy go home” and he started to walk straight and we followed after him. Our exit wasn’t too far but it was covered already by tide, that’s why we didn’t see it. The waves each moment became higher and stronger, so we needed to wait to pass it and not to get totally wet. I think if we would wait a bit longer, we would need to swim through the exit. And it’s not the easiest way, like there are many big rocks. When we were passing inside we needed even to lean.

So how not to call it magic? When the dog appears from nowhere and waiting for us to show the way?

Before entering the beach there are no signs informing about timing when people need to return and not stuck there. Suluban beach is more open, so you can easily see and know how to get out. Even there are people who are standing on the cliffs and starts to whistle for swimmers and those who are in the beach that it’s time to go from there, like it’s becomes danger to stay. But in Uluwatu, nobody informs you.

If you are not sure if worth to go to Uluwatu beach, you can read some other travelers review about it and here are some more nice pictures of this place which probably will convince you to come here.

Tips for visiting Uluwatu beach:

Location: Jalan Pantai Suluban, Pecatu, Jimbaran
There is no entrance fee but for motorbike parking you will need to pay 3 000 Rp, for a car 5 000 Rp.
It’s a beautiful place for pre-wedding, wedding pictures and other photo sessions but if you want to make them on “special place” you need to pay extra “fee”.
You can find there not only eating places but as well some souvenirs shops, showers. But after 5 pm almost everything is closed. Even only 1 toilet was open.
I think, if you are not a surfer to spend there whole day you won’t have much things to do. But you can visit my mentioned beaches above during the daytime and stay in Uluwatu beach for a sunset. Or after staying in Uluwatu beach in daytime and go to Uluwatu temple (it’s only 10 min. drive from the beach), to see the sunset there and enjoy the Kecak dance performance. As well you can stay for a longer time in Bukit Peninsula (here are some good deals for hotels in Agoda, Booking or TripAdvisor) and discover really nice places, not only my mentioned beaches and enjoy other activities.

Would you like to visit Uluwatu beach? If you have been in Bali, which beach you recommend to see?

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Indonesian discoveries (part 2) – nature

Indonesia is a country where you become addicted to travel. There are so many breathtaking places and so many things to explore – you just need to decide where to go. Even without a plan, you will have, for sure, amazing memories.

If you like to travel, probably, you had such feeling – when you come to a place, it’s just bewitch you? Here are some Indonesian discoveries of nature that stuck in my mind like most powerful ones (which I visited till now). I don’t know why and truly to say don’t think about it so much. For me, the main thing – at that time, when I was there, I was really happy!

Waterfall Siruwe (“Air terjun Siruwe”, Dieng Plateau, Java island)

To reach this waterfall we went through rice paddies, small “jungle”, no more clear path was seen. The view from a bit further already was amazing. But to go down wasn’t so easy – it was vertical way through clay that was still wet and very slippery. It took us some time to get down – but we were so happy – to be in the middle of nowhere, without anyone else, to hear the sound of falling water, to feel strong wind and the power of nature.
First time in life I try bath under the waterfall (ant it’s ~100 m high). And it was the most powerful feeling that I ever felt – for couple of minutes I couldn’t even properly breath – because of coldness, strong wind and strong water stream that was a bit painful. I stood there and didn’t want to move. I felt what it means to be in a nature ant with it. This waterfall was the most amazing thing that I saw in my life (till now :)).

Selong Belanag beach (“Pantai Selong Belanag”, Lombok island)

When I saw this beach I was amazed. It was so big, yellow, soft, warm sand, with turquoise water color. I never before saw such color of the water. I was just standing there and watching that immense horizon. Through me passed couple beginners surfers and that’s all, no more people (only sellers in “warungs”). The beach was quite long, so I just desired to walk through it and enjoy that peaceful moment. Only later I decided to swim a bit and the water was so warm. Funny thing, in touristic books written that swimming here impossible because quite near onshore, there are many fisherman boats. But it’s not true, you can see some boats but it’s further from the beach. The beach and sea are so large, that everyone can find a place for themselves. I felt in love with this beach, so even if we didn’t plan, we came here once again, on the way back.

“Pink beach” (“Pantai Tangsi”, Lombok island)

Local people as well call it “heaven beach”. 10 km distance we needed to drive more than 1 hour through very rocky road. Local people say that “if you want to reach heaven (beach) you need pass hell (rocky road)”. When we came there were no people. It’s cozy, not big beach with pink color sand. You can swim there, a bit climb on the hill and see many other beaches from the top. This beach looked like from fairy tale.

Gili Meno island

Small island, during 1 hour you can walk around all of it. The sunrises in horizon of mount Rinjani and peaceful beaches just bewitched me. I never thought that I can stay 4 days in a beach and do nothing :). But here I manage just to do nothing and enjoy holidays.

Tanjung Puting National park (Borneo island)

First time I saw in this park live orangutans (like other monkeys) and their life in a nature. To meet them in a middle of forest, to see how they behavior, look at you – something unforgettable.

Sunset in Uluwatu temple (“Pura Luhur Uluwatu”, Bali island)

If you ever thought about “perfect” sunset – this place is the right one to see it. Fishing boats, temple on the cliff, Balinese “kechak” dance and going down sun – the view like a reward for all hard work.

Sidoharjo waterfall (“Air terjun Sidoharjo”, Kulon Progo, Java island)

Even if the stream of this waterfall already smaller than was before, still this ~75 m high waterfall reminds me that nature is so beautiful and inspiring. More than 1 hour I was just sitting there and enjoying all surrounding.

Sunset in Parangtritis beach (“Pantai Parangtritis”, Yogyakarta, Java island)

This beach not the best in Indonesia and Yogyakarta. Rubbish, not allowed to swim, strong wind but it’s a perfect place for sunsets not far away from the city. This sunset was like a gift for my birthday – special one :).

Yeah, I believe that Indonesia can suggest even more beautiful places to see, to explore. But like I read somewhere, you need at least 45 years, if you want to see most of the Indonesia. I don’t have any so much time, so I try to enjoy every place that I see and every time I fall in love with Indonesia more and more.

What is your nature discoveries in Indonesia? Tell me your stories :)

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Mount Merapi defeated me

How many times you read bad or failure stories? Somehow most of the people shares only good things. In one hand it’s good – more positive thoughts – creates more positive things. But in other hand – is it real life, when everything goes just right?

I have such story – “failure” one – how mount Merapi defeated me ;). And want to show that not only sun shines in Indonesia, but sometimes comes some clouds as well (but beautiful ones) :).

Many people that I know, who comes or stays longer in Yogyakarta, wants at least once, climb up to mount Merapi and meet there the sunrise. I was one of those people. Just till now, somehow wasn’t right time to do that or people with whom to climb. By the way “Gunung Merapi” (literally “Fire mount”), the most active volcano in Indonesia and has erupted regularly since 1548 (~68 times).

But finally, some of the friends organized night trekking to mount Merapi to meet sunrise. So I wanted to join them for sure (when if not now? :)).

Day before trekking I was a bit nervous – it was my first trekking in life and as well to so high (2930 m.) and vertical mount. I didn’t know what to expect, how my body will adapt it, if I like it and it’s at night. You know, Lithuania is a “flat” country, highest point is 294 m. Also all my trips in Europe somehow wasn’t around hills :D. But at the same time I was excited.

The adventure begins!

We all (8 people) met at meeting point on the way to mount Merapi. We started our motorbike trip ~10:00 pm. Of course, which trip goes without “surprises”? After ~30 min. of driving, one of motorbike got flat tire. So we needed to find who can fix it. We were lucky, like near was one service who was still working in late evening. We wait a bit and moved on.

The road wasn’t the best – holes, not in all parts of the road was lightening, tortuous way. Going higher became colder and colder. We even stopped to dress more clothes before reach the post.

On the way to mount Merapi we are waiting

Maybe after couple of hours we were in the post of mount Merapi (from Selo village side). Surprising that in the post nobody was working. Usually, many people come at night for trekking till sunrise. But we were thinking, maybe because of Ramadhan, local people fasting, going to visit relatives and doesn’t go for such trips.

We were trying to find somebody who could park our motorbikes and as well register us that we are going up. Like couple months ago one Indonesian guy died in mount Merapi (he was making selfie in the edge of the top and slipped). After that, the rules to entering and leaving mount Merapi became stricter. As well it’s not allowed anymore to climb exactly to the top (the last point is ~500 m from the real top of mount).

Finally we found responsible people (they were already sleeping – it’s normal thing to do at midnight :D). The registration, parking took us ~40 min., because of waiting we started freeze (you know at ~1 am in high place, not so warm, even in Indonesia). We saw some other motorbikes, guy in the post told that they arrived day before and are camping in mount Merapi national park.

After all bureaucracy things, we dressed the warmest clothes, covered all naked parts and started to trek.

Preparation for trekking in mount Merapi

Already from the beginning, after the post, the road was quite sharp (in my opinion, from person who never made trekking ;)). After maybe 15 min. my lungs were almost locked. I couldn’t breathe properly. I don’t know why, maybe because of nerves, pressure or first time such activity. The rest 6 people went up and me with friend decided not to be in a rush and go slowly.

Little by little we were going up, the path was more complicated, slippery sand and not wide. I needed stop more and more times. During stops we meet couple of foreigners groups (probably they came with travel agencies that organizes trips). In my mind already was an idea to go back, but I thought maybe still little by little I would manage to go to the top.

Unfortunately, after almost 1 hour of going up, I decided to go down. Yeah, I gave up (even if it’s not common to me). Just I was a bit afraid that if I will go further up and I will feel worst then I will make problems for myself and the entire group. So I decided that better not to push myself and make problems for others. I didn’t reach even the mount Merapi national park gate (that is in ~1 km distance from post). Pity :( But at least, now I know that I need to prepare more for trekking trips. I already imagine how I would be trekking in Lombok island, mount Rinjani, when I planned to do it during my 3 weeks trip there. But at that time, park was closed because of rainy season, so need to change my plans. Now I think it was a sign :D.

The way down was even more difficult because of slippery sand and bluff way. I even couple times slipped (I had proper shoes for trekking). Going down took me the same 1 hour.

But not to go to the top of mount Merapi was the worst part :D. The most “exciting” part was when we (me and my friend) came to post and wanted to take motorbike for going back. What do you think? Everything was closed (why they should be open, if usually people return in late morning from the top?). 2 hours (truly I’m not lying) we were knocking all possible doors, windows, going around the building, even sitting in the street and hoping that some neighbor will pass and would tell us how to reach responsible people. But nothing. The weather was more and more freezing.

During our waiting for a “miracle” that somebody will open the door, one foreigner couple didn’t reach the top as well and came back. So it seems not only me can’t handle mount Merapi – I feel a bit better about it :D.

Waiting till somebody will pass near Merapi post

Finally! ~5 am the people in post heard us and open the door. But it was too cold to go by motorbike straight back (usually in the mornings very cold wind). So we decided to wait a bit, warm up and then go.

We started to chat with the post guy and he told us, that before Merapi eruption the way to the top was much better, but now even for him, who is trekking there almost all life – quite difficult to go. As well, he told that it’s common that people not handle go to the top (may “failure” became smaller :)). And when we told that we wanted to see sunrise, he started to laugh and told that from his house (beside the post) we can see sunrise as well. Just need to wait till ~6 am. So like it left ~45 min. we decided to stay and at least see something ;).

It was very beautiful view! (even it was totally cold). The sun came like from the sea line and colors was so clear; I could say “dramatic”. I felt relieved that at least I had amazing views: in front – sunrise, in the left mount Merbabu softly lighten by sun and twin mounts Sindoro and Sumbing, in the back small part of mount Merapi.

First colors of sunrise in back of mount Merapi

After 15 min. we left – tired and still freezing (I can just imagine how guys felt on the top). On the way, we saw beautiful views of Merapi, other mounts, daily people life’s, active morning market. I was surprised how many traditional Javanese houses there, still build in old way with “gedheg” (like “big tent”). And almost no rice fields – but big plantations of different vegetables. I think if you don’t want to trek but have beautiful views, it’s just enough to come to that area in early morning, before sun goes up ;).

So this is how my first mount Merapi defeated me :D. I don’t know if soon I would like to go there again, but maybe later I be ready more and will win! :).

Now in my mind thoughts how will be in mounts Bromo and Ijien that I plan to visit :D. Hope much better :D.

What is your experience in trekking in mount Merapi or other Indonesian mount? :)

PRACTICAL INFORMATION

If you are not trekker, I suggest at least, one week before the trip, have some more physical activities – riding bicycles every day and etc.
It’s not easy to see the post at night, especially when it’s closed, so here is the photo, not to miss it ;).

Entrance fee for locals and students – 15 000 Rp. For tourists 155 000 Rp and on holidays, weekends – 225 000 Rp.
It took us ~2,5 hour to get there from Yogyakarta with motorbikes.
We fill full back of fuel and it was enough go both ways.
The post guy told us, that experienced trekkers, reach the top during ~3 hours, others (depends on their condition) during ~4-6 hours. The tourist groups came ~1-2 am and sunrise is at ~6 am, so organizers probably knows that 4 hours should be enough to reach the top.
Take with you snacks, enough water, properly clothes (gloves, hat, socks, warm sweater, jacket, scarf, shoes suitable for trekking, flash light, if you are coming near the beginning or in the end of rainy season, take raincoat).
Avoid trekking in the rainy season which spans late October to early April.
If you want to go there by motorbike – ride north out of Yogyakarta on Jl. Magelang for ~45 min. When you reach Mungkid turn right into Jl. Bololali – Mungkad and head towards Ketep. At Ketep turn right and continue following the Jl. Bololali – Mungkad into Selo. From Selo ride up the steep road (on the right as you come into Selo).
There are no straight buses to go to Merapi. You can reach the sub-village by public transportation from Yogyakarta (Jambor station) to Magelang, stopping at Blabak and continued by minibus or hichkiking to Selo. Afterwards, you will need to walk through asphalt roads to the post.
I know that those who comes with public bus, usually comes in the early evening to the last village Selo, stay for couple of hours in the hostel (there are several – just ask people, they knows who accept guests) and then goes up.
More practical information here.

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