Mount Merapi defeated me

How many times you read bad or failure stories? Somehow most of the people shares only good things. In one hand it’s good – more positive thoughts – creates more positive things. But in other hand – is it real life, when everything goes just right?

I have such story – “failure” one – how mount Merapi defeated me ;). And want to show that not only sun shines in Indonesia, but sometimes comes some clouds as well (but beautiful ones) :).

Many people that I know, who comes or stays longer in Yogyakarta, wants at least once, climb up to mount Merapi and meet there the sunrise. I was one of those people. Just till now, somehow wasn’t right time to do that or people with whom to climb. By the way “Gunung Merapi” (literally “Fire mount”), the most active volcano in Indonesia and has erupted regularly since 1548 (~68 times).

But finally, some of the friends organized night trekking to mount Merapi to meet sunrise. So I wanted to join them for sure (when if not now? :)).

Day before trekking I was a bit nervous – it was my first trekking in life and as well to so high (2930 m.) and vertical mount. I didn’t know what to expect, how my body will adapt it, if I like it and it’s at night. You know, Lithuania is a “flat” country, highest point is 294 m. Also all my trips in Europe somehow wasn’t around hills :D. But at the same time I was excited.

The adventure begins!

We all (8 people) met at meeting point on the way to mount Merapi. We started our motorbike trip ~10:00 pm. Of course, which trip goes without “surprises”? After ~30 min. of driving, one of motorbike got flat tire. So we needed to find who can fix it. We were lucky, like near was one service who was still working in late evening. We wait a bit and moved on.

The road wasn’t the best – holes, not in all parts of the road was lightening, tortuous way. Going higher became colder and colder. We even stopped to dress more clothes before reach the post.

Maybe after couple of hours we were in the post of mount Merapi (from Selo village side). Surprising that in the post nobody was working. Usually, many people come at night for trekking till sunrise. But we were thinking, maybe because of Ramadhan, local people fasting, going to visit relatives and doesn’t go for such trips.

We were trying to find somebody who could park our motorbikes and as well register us that we are going up. Like couple months ago one Indonesian guy died in mount Merapi (he was making selfie in the edge of the top and slipped). After that, the rules to entering and leaving mount Merapi became stricter. As well it’s not allowed anymore to climb exactly to the top (the last point is ~500 m from the real top of mount).

Finally we found responsible people (they were already sleeping – it’s normal thing to do at midnight :D). The registration, parking took us ~40 min., because of waiting we started freeze (you know at ~1 am in high place, not so warm, even in Indonesia). We saw some other motorbikes, guy in the post told that they arrived day before and are camping in mount Merapi national park.

After all bureaucracy things, we dressed the warmest clothes, covered all naked parts and started to trek.

Already from the beginning, after the post, the road was quite sharp (in my opinion, from person who never made trekking ;)). After maybe 15 min. my lungs were almost locked. I couldn’t breathe properly. I don’t know why, maybe because of nerves, pressure or first time such activity. The rest 6 people went up and me with friend decided not to be in a rush and go slowly.

Little by little we were going up, the path was more complicated, slippery sand and not wide. I needed stop more and more times. During stops we meet couple of foreigners groups (probably they came with travel agencies that organizes trips). In my mind already was an idea to go back, but I thought maybe still little by little I would manage to go to the top.

Unfortunately, after almost 1 hour of going up, I decided to go down. Yeah, I gave up (even if it’s not common to me). Just I was a bit afraid that if I will go further up and I will feel worst then I will make problems for myself and the entire group. So I decided that better not to push myself and make problems for others. I didn’t reach even the mount Merapi national park gate (that is in ~1 km distance from post). Pity :( But at least, now I know that I need to prepare more for trekking trips. I already imagine how I would be trekking in Lombok island, mount Rinjani, when I planned to do it during my 3 weeks trip there. But at that time, park was closed because of rainy season, so need to change my plans. Now I think it was a sign :D.

The way down was even more difficult because of slippery sand and bluff way. I even couple times slipped (I had proper shoes for trekking). Going down took me the same 1 hour.

But not to go to the top of mount Merapi was the worst part :D. The most “exciting” part was when we (me and my friend) came to post and wanted to take motorbike for going back. What do you think? Everything was closed (why they should be open, if usually people return in late morning from the top?). 2 hours (truly I’m not lying) we were knocking all possible doors, windows, going around the building, even sitting in the street and hoping that some neighbor will pass and would tell us how to reach responsible people. But nothing. The weather was more and more freezing.

During our waiting for a “miracle” that somebody will open the door, one foreigner couple didn’t reach the top as well and came back. So it seems not only me can’t handle mount Merapi – I feel a bit better about it :D.

Finally! ~5 am the people in post heard us and open the door. But it was too cold to go by motorbike straight back (usually in the mornings very cold wind). So we decided to wait a bit, warm up and then go.

We started to chat with the post guy and he told us, that before Merapi eruption the way to the top was much better, but now even for him, who is trekking there almost all life – quite difficult to go. As well, he told that it’s common that people not handle go to the top (may “failure” became smaller :)). And when we told that we wanted to see sunrise, he started to laugh and told that from his house (beside the post) we can see sunrise as well. Just need to wait till ~6 am. So like it left ~45 min. we decided to stay and at least see something ;).

It was very beautiful view! (even it was totally cold). The sun came like from the sea line and colors was so clear; I could say “dramatic”. I felt relieved that at least I had amazing views: in front – sunrise, in the left mount Merbabu softly lighten by sun and twin mounts Sindoro and Sumbing, in the back small part of mount Merapi.

Beauty of mount Merapi

After 15 min. we left – tired and still freezing (I can just imagine how guys felt on the top). On the way, we saw beautiful views of Merapi, other mounts, daily people life’s, active morning market. I was surprised how many traditional Javanese houses there, still build in old way with “gedheg” (like “big tent”). And almost no rice fields – but big plantations of different vegetables. I think if you don’t want to trek but have beautiful views, it’s just enough to come to that area in early morning, before sun goes up ;).

So this is how my first mount Merapi defeated me :D. I don’t know if soon I would like to go there again, but maybe later I be ready more and will win! :).

Now in my mind thoughts how will be in mounts Bromo and Ijien that I plan to visit :D. Hope much better :D.

What is your experience in trekking in mount Merapi or other Indonesian mount? :)

PRACTICAL INFORMATION
  • If you are not trekker, I suggest at least, one week before the trip, have some more physical activities – riding bicycles every day and etc.
  • It’s not easy to see the post at night, especially when it’s closed, so here is the photo, not to miss it ;).
  • Entrance fee for locals and students – 15 000 Rp. For tourists 155 000 Rp and on holidays, weekends – 225 000 Rp.
  • It took us ~2,5 hour to get there from Yogyakarta with motorbikes.
  • We fill full back of fuel and it was enough go both ways.
  • The post guy told us, that experienced trekkers, reach the top during ~3 hours, others (depends on their condition) during ~4-6 hours. The tourist groups came ~1-2 am and sunrise is at ~6 am, so organizers probably knows that 4 hours should be enough to reach the top.
  • Take with you snacks, enough water, properly clothes (gloves, hat, socks, warm sweater, jacket, scarf, shoes suitable for trekking, flash light, if you are coming near the beginning or in the end of rainy season, take raincoat).
  • Avoid trekking in the rainy season which spans late October to early April.
  • If you want to go there by motorbike – ride north out of Yogyakarta on Jl. Magelang for ~45 min. When you reach Mungkid turn right into Jl. Bololali – Mungkad and head towards Ketep. At Ketep turn right and continue following the Jl. Bololali – Mungkad into Selo. From Selo ride up the steep road (on the right as you come into Selo).
  • There are no straight buses to go to Merapi. You can reach the sub-village by public transportation from Yogyakarta (Jambor station) to Magelang, stopping at Blabak and continued by minibus or hichkiking to Selo. Afterwards, you will need to walk through asphalt roads to the post.
  • I know that those who comes with public bus, usually comes in the early evening to the last village Selo, stay for couple of hours in the hostel (there are several – just ask people, they knows who accept guests) and then goes up.
  • More practical information here.

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What to take with you before coming to Indonesia

It’s my recommendation what to take before coming to Indonesia. Mostly this information useful for Darmasiswa scholarship students but as well some parts for those who are planning to come to Indonesia longer than 1 month or just for short period.
It’s just advice, nothing is mandatory. Only you know what you can need during living abroad.

Clothes

Don’t take too many clothes, in Indonesia, you can find second-hand shops, other cheap clothes shops as well very known brands. Also, don’t take clothes that are expensive, have some meaning for you, a lot of white ones and etc. like in laundry sometimes soon those clothes will change color,  white will become grey, can be damaged or lost. With the shoes the same – during the rainy season will be very humid, so your shoes can be damaged by mushrooms.

In Indonesia, people are more discreet than in Europe or other countries. Usually, girls wear a T-shirt, rarely a low-cut or a sleeveless T-shirt. Nobody will criticize you because of your clothes, nobody will do or but don’t feel harassed when you get stares. In most universities, it’s forbidden to come with flip-flops (called sandals in Indonesia). At university or any institution, public or religious building, proper clothes are a must
Large-sized men and women may not easily find ready-to-wear clothing to fit them. However, tailors and seamstresses can easily make custom clothing to fit any size individual. Large shoe sizes are also not available, the exception being sports shoes at the factory outlet stores. Indonesia generally uses the European shoe size system, making up to size 38.

My suggested list for girls:

  • T-shirts (that covers shoulders, with straps, long ones)
  • Shorts (till knees, short ones)
  • Skirts (till knees or long ones)
  • Dress (casual till knees, nice one till knees to wear in official ceremonies for example weddings if you will be invited, meeting with important community people and etc.)
  • Pans (for trekking, for evenings – like during the rainy season will be a bit colder, as well going with the scooter in the evenings the wind can be cold)
  • Leggings (longer, shorter – very good for daily activities, going with the scooter. But in Indonesia you can buy it as well with batik patter and etc. :))
  • Sweater or jacket (for trekking, colder evenings/ going with scooter and light one for very sunny days not to get burn your skin, which covers all arms)
  • Shoes (slingback, slippers, sneakers, trekking shoes (if you like to trekking), suitable for rainy weather – for me was very good – “Crocs”)
  • Swimsuit (better to take a couple – one-piece for those beaches that comes not a lot of tourists or just swim with shorts and T-shirt – like it’s common between local people and second – separate for touristic beaches)
  • Raincoat (if you have your favorite take it with you (if you like trekking you can take warmer one as well), if not – during the rainy season you can buy in Indonesia very cheap and choose from many kinds :)
  • Sleeping clothes (if you wear them during the night ;))
  • Home clothes – where at home (if you changed them after coming from outside)
  • Underwear (for the girls with more curvy hips, you must know that most underwear is not available in your size, except for the international, expensive brands)
  • Scarf (for entering some visiting places, cover in the beach)
  • Hat (if you have your favorite, take it – if not, you can buy it in Indonesia)
  • Belts (if you need for pans, your dress or other clothes)
  • Socks (for trekking, wearing at home during the rainy season because can we quite cold walk on the ceramic pavement)
  • Clothes for your studies (if you choose dances, ceramic and etc.)

And any other clothes that you think you can need or you like to wear :).

Hygiene stuff:

  • Cream for the face (everybody told me not to take it like it’s humid and the skin becomes very quick oily, but for me, it helped during the trips on the road, like it was easy  to remove the dust from my face and it does not stay straight on the skin, the cream observe it)
  • Ears pick (just for the beginning, like later you can easily find it in Indonesia)
  • Shampoo (travel size – the empty bottle will be useful for the trips in Indonesia and later you can easily buy here, except if you use some specific shampoo then take a bigger amount). Notice: most girls in Indonesia experience hair fall, lack shine, and less smoothness. A reason for this is the low quality of tap water. It is highly treated with chemicals (absolutely not drink it) but it also affects the skin and hair.
  • Comb (take your favorite from home)
  • Toothpaste (travel size – till you will find the nearest shop where to buy normal size, except if you use some specific toothpaste, then take bigger amount)
  • Toothbrush (just for beginning, later you can easily find a new one)
  • Dental floss (if you use it, it helps to keep the tooth clean after all Indonesian food and I didn’t find in Yogyakarta, where to buy it)
  • Sun cream (you can easily find here but only till ~30 SPV, if you use a specific one or stronger, take it with you from home)
  • Bath gel (travel size – the empty bottle will be useful for the trips in Indonesia and later you can easily buy here, except if you use some specific shampoo then take a bigger amount). Better to take antibacterial – like the water in some places not so clean, so you can get allergy, acne (but in Indonesia, you can easily find soap “Asepso” – for me helped a lot)
  • Body lotion (even if in Indonesia quite humid, still sometimes skin needs some “help”)
  • Scrub (for face and body if you use separate products, it helps to remove the dust after driving, walking)
  • Shaving tools (take more recharge, like in Indonesia hard to have opportunities to choose from different brands and find it, as well it’s quite expensive comparing with Darmasiswa scholarship amount). Also take shaver cream, if you use – epilator (for me it was the best solution). Waxing is mostly not available in Indonesia, so if you like it – take with you enough tools.
  • Tampons (if you use it, take enough, like here it’s very hard to find, if you are lucky it will be very expensive for a small amount (compering with Darmasiswa program money) or better take menstrual cup – water to clean you will find everywhere)
  • Pads (if you have your favorite, take enough, if not – in Indonesia you can buy them easily in bigger supermarkets. There are many brands of normal pads, night pads, day pads, etc.
  • Manicure tools (everything that you use, if like – take some colors, remover you can buy in Indonesia)
  • Pumice for feet (if you use that, like after trips, walking without shoes it’s very useful)
  • Perfume (take if you have your favorite smell, but I almost didn’t use it, like on the sweaty body (and during the dry season you will sweat a lot :D, take a shower probably couple times per day) it doesn’t smell nice :()
  • Deodorant (take if you use it, I took ball it was much better than spray)
  • Make up tools  and remover (if you use makeup, take your favorite tools and colors)
  • Eyebrows tools
  • Wet napkins for cleaning (just for the trip) if you will need later – you can easily find in Indonesia as well as disinfection liquid for hands
  • Spry from mosquitoes (strong one, like during the trips and at home, you will have them. And mosquitoes can cause Dengue fever)

And any other stuff that you think you can need or you used to use :).

Medicine:

  • If you use some medicine by recipe – take the recipe with you and enough amount of medicine because possible that you won’t find exactly medicine in Indonesia. Also if you usually use some medicine at home – just write on the list their name and if you will need, you can show for doctor (for example almost nobody in Indonesia use probiotics, like the expenses of the insurance here doesn’t cover – when I asked to give me some – they asked me what kind of brand I usually use – I didn’t remember and they give me whatever they found in the medicine list :). The medicine you can buy here as well but you may not find exact brands that you used to use and also the same brand medicine for Indonesian people can be modified by their health condition (like usually, health conditions of different nations are different).
  • Antibiotics (if you can’t get them before coming to Indonesia, take it – it will be helpful during the rainy season, as the weather will be windy, sometimes cold and humid, easily to get flue and similar disease)
  • Plaster (for the trips and till your foots will adapt hot weather, sweating foots and disappear calluses )
  • Bandage (especially useful for the trips)
  • Deodorant or powered for foots (useful for trips and first months till foots adapt for hot weather)
  • Disinfection liquid or cream (useful from scratches, like fly can bring you easily infection on it)
  • Cream from mussels paint, tension, bruise
  • From the paint (head, muscles, stomach)
  • From diarrhea (especially can be during first months till stomach adapt for the new food)
  • From nausea (especially can be during first months till stomach adapt for the new food)
  • From fever
  • From throat paint (will be very useful during rainy season or during the hot days, drinking cold drinks and the going to air conditional room)
  • From the flue (by accident you can get it even during dry season because of temperature differences between outside (hot) and air conditional rooms (in shops, university and etc.)
  • Drops for eyes  (if you have contact lenses it will help your eyes to keep not so dry, as well because of big air pollution even those that not use lenses can feel dry eyes, so it useful)
  • From acne (if you use some medicine at home, take with you, also good to have some preparation from it because of sweating, air pollution and not quality water you can get it easily)
  • Vitamins for immunity system
  • Contact lenses and liquid for cleaning it (if you use it, I suggest to take enough pairs for all Darmasiswa scholarship period)
  • For girls: contraception pills or other medicine that you use (if you use it take enough for your scholarship period and take the recipe as well. Can be that you won’t found exactly the same that you use, as well in some pharmacy (especially in smaller towns, villages) they can ask you to show marriage paper before selling it (not allowed to have sex before marriage and if you are not married it means you don’t need such pills ;)) It’s difficult to find the morning-after pill.
  • Condoms: you can find to buy them in Indonesia in pharmacy or supermarkets. You can find international brands and local production. But don’t expect to have such a big variety like in Europe, so if you have some favorite ones – just take them with you from home.

And any other medicine that you think you can need or you used to use :).

Other stuff:

  • Passport
  • Plane tickets
  • International driving license (if you have. In Bali only with the international driving license you won‘t be stopped by police)
  • Vaccination book (if you will take any vaccinations before coming to Indonesia)
  • Insurance document copy (if you will have it, in a case if you will need to use it immediately)
  • Laptop
  • Mobile (take with you and your country SIM card, like sometimes it’s cheaper to contact with your family in emergency case)
  • Photo camera
  • Hard disk (to put pictures from a laptop, to download movies, make a copy of your laptop documents)
  • USB (good for files that you can need to be printed)
  • Chargers (for mobile, photo camera, computer, and other devices that you will take). Your device system should work in Indonesia with a transformer, if necessary, to adjust to voltage differences.
  • Scissors (moved to new house you never know what you can need to cut and first weeks you may not know where to find what)
  • Strong glue (in a case you will need to glue your shoes, furniture and etc.)
  • Towel
  • Mirror (at least small one, like you don’t know if in a house will be any)
  • Sunglasses
  • Earplug (if you are sensitive for sounds, in the beginning you will need it because of loud callings from mosques for praying and etc.)
  • At least one time fork, spoon, knife (you never know what will be in a house for first days)
  • Stuff for trips (if you like to travel so you will need some usual things that you take with you. Sleeping bag – you can buy here quite cheap, mattress for trips or tent as well)
  • Flash (for trips and if electricity will be gone)
  • Books (at least a couple of them, later you will find some places where you can change your books, rent it or buy-but in the English language it will be more expensive)
  • Souvenirs from your country (sweets, some traditional cookies, postcards, magnets – whatever small, like you will visit some places, also can organize an international evening where you will need to present your country)
  • Jewellery (if you use it)
  • Bag, purse (for daily use) – but in Indonesia you can find really colorful and beautiful ones.
  • Money (enough for first months when you will need to pay for rent, buy some things for a house)
  • Catadioptric (if you will walk in the evenings in the streets without light, here nobody use it – so if you would like to buy, I don‘t think so that will be easy to find)
  • Mosquitoes protection (net to cover the bed – here you can find but can be not good size, not good material, so better take what you usually use during the trips) also can bring electrical tool from mosquitoes, like during rainy season there will be a lot of them.
  • E-bank facility (if you use take with you security codes or other things that you need to log in to your e-bank)
    Passwords: in safe place write the passwords to log in to your e-mails, e-bank, mobile. If you won‘t use it frequently you can just forget it.

And any other stuff that you think you can need or you used to use :).

Food:

All imported food in Indonesia is expensive (comparing with Darmasiswa scholarship amount) and not in every shop you can find known food brands. So if you like to cook, I suggest to bring from your country:

  • Olive oil (even small plastic bottle)
  • Spices (oregano, pepper, tarragon, and others that you usually use)
  • Chocolate (Indonesian one doesn’t taste like real one)
  • Alcohol (just in a case wine bottle or something stronger, like here in shops you won’t find a lot, mainly can drink in restaurants that is orientated to a tourists)

And any other products that can last long, don’t take much space and weight, is specific from your country.

Maybe you have other suggestions what to take more? Share your ideas :)

Useful? Great! :) You might also like these:

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